West Greenland Photo Workshop: Capturing Disko Bay’s Wonders Aboard Schooner Elsi

Our first destination is Aasiaat, a charming coastal town that we’ll reach by sailing through the iconic Icefjord, which you may have glimpsed from the plane.

Here, you’ll experience the awe-inspiring sight of icebergs from the water and the thrill of spotting your first whale. Whales are a common sight in this area, and they play a significant role in Greenland’s culture—so much so that they’re featured on our expedition emblem. During past journeys, we’ve witnessed groups of whales, sometimes four to seven at a time, breaching near the yacht, creating unforgettable moments.

For those who enjoy fishing, Aasiaat offers the chance to catch fresh cod or catfish. Our onboard chef will prepare your catch for a delicious meal. While halibut, sea bass, and wild trout are harder to catch, we can find them at the local market. You might even come across whale meat, a traditional Inuit staple still used today.

As you explore Aasiaat, look for the striking whale jawbone arch near the church and a full-size whale skeleton displayed by the hotel—powerful reminders of the town’s deep connection to these magnificent creatures.

Qeqertarsuaq, historically known as Godhavn, is a port town in the Qeqertalik municipality, situated on the southern coast of Disko Island along Greenland’s western shores. 

Qeqertarsuaq is unlike anywhere else in Greenland. This remarkable island boasts black sand beaches adorned with shimmering ice fragments, towering reddish-black mountains that loom over vibrant, colorful houses, and a lush hinterland teeming with over half of Greenland’s plant species. Adding to its uniqueness are the striking basalt columns, twisted into fascinating shapes, a testament to the island’s volcanic origins—making it the only volcanic region in Greenland.

You’ll experience it firsthand as we trek a scenic path through the Wind Valley, passing cascading waterfalls, towering basalt cliffs, and a striking black sand beach. The route follows the gulf, offering breathtaking views of massive icebergs drifting in the distance. Be sure to bring a bag—mushrooms are abundant along the trail, so plentiful that they seem to appear effortlessly in the grass.

After the trek, we’ll head to a hidden spot with two waterfalls, where we’ll enjoy a beachside barbecue on volcanic sands. For those seeking adventure, there’s even an opportunity to wakeboard among the icebergs. We’ll return to port in the evening, ending the day surrounded by Disko Island’s serene beauty.

Saqqaq is a charming little town located about fifty miles from Qeqertarsuaq. We’ll make a stop here for the night before continuing on to Uummannaq, the longest leg of our expedition. While in Saqqaq, we recommend visiting the local church, which is open 24/7.

Greenlandic churches, along with sculptures, paintings, and drawings, offer a glimpse into the rich culture and traditions of the Inuit people. Just as they have for thousands of years, dogs continue to play a vital role in the lives of Greenlanders. Used for both transportation in the winter and hunting, dog sledding is a deep-rooted tradition that remains an essential part of daily life.

In small towns like Saqqaq, many locals are involved in breeding or training sled dogs. During our visit, we’ll have the chance to see several kennels and, if you’re lucky, interact with some adorable fluffy puppies.

Uummannaq is a picturesque town nestled at the base of a mountain shaped like a heart. The journey to Uummannaq will take most of the day, but the scenic views along the way make it absolutely worthwhile. Once in town, you’ll have the chance to stroll through its charming streets and take in the stunning surroundings.

Step into the past at Qullissat, an abandoned coal mining village with a haunting yet fascinating history. Once a thriving community, the village was left deserted when the mines closed in 1972. Despite its isolation, former residents and their descendants still visit to maintain their family homes. Wander through this silent, atmospheric village, where the echoes of the past linger in the empty streets and decaying buildings.

On your final day, visit Oqaatsut, a former whaling settlement known as “Rodebay.” As you cruise along the coast, you may spot remnants of whales resting on the seabed, a testament to the town’s whaling heritage. Enjoy a meal at the historic H8 tavern, sampling local delicacies such as smoked whale, halibut, and a hearty seafood soup. The return journey to Ilulissat, framed by floating icebergs and the fading light of the Arctic sky, provides a fitting end to your expedition.